Friday, September 9, 2011

The Grapes from A-Z

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is a bit lighter and rounder than Cabernet Sauvignon and has a different note of wood to it that I find easy to identify and is best expressed in the wines of the Loire. Chinon comes to mind, the Clos D’Isoré most specifically is my favorite vineyard, Olga Raffault the maker of choice. Yes, I agree it came from the Bordeaux region, but it loves the cool moist climate of the Loire valley, and the bordelaise blend it into anonymity, the exception proving the rule.
The fifth element indeed… As one of the cinq cépages*, it reaches its apogee in Cheval Blanc, itself one of the greatest of Bordeaux. Bourriquot, French slang for a donkey, a vin d’ homage from Havens of California is a must buy whenever it is found. Not nearly as polished or elegant as the name so aptly implies, the makers had the courage and foresight to attempt such a blend, and the sense of humor to reflect the outcome en Française.
I have found a most pleasant wine from Long Island, N.Y. Wolfer Estate has made a long-term commitment to Cabernet Franc and have done a noteworthy job of it. Pair the wine with a Long Island duck and a sampling of great produce available on the island for a great statement on local/green dining. I have done the very thing; perhaps I will share the menu with you one day.
Recommendations;
Cab/Cab Franc/Merlot 2003 Havens+ California Black and Blue Buy this 89pts
Cab Franc/Merlot 2002 Havens+ California Bourriquot Blue and black fruits
Gristina Vineyards on Long Island and most wineries beginning with ‘P’ for great Cab Franc…
*i.e. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.
+ Sadly, Havens is no more…great guys making great wines is not enough I guess.

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