Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is a bit lighter and rounder than Cabernet Sauvignon and has a different note of wood to it that I find easy to identify and is best expressed in the wines of the Loire. Chinon comes to mind, the Clos D’Isoré most specifically is my favorite vineyard, Olga Raffault the maker of choice. Yes, I agree it came from the Bordeaux region, but it loves the cool moist climate of the Loire valley, and the bordelaise blend it into anonymity, the exception proving the rule.
The fifth element indeed… As one of the cinq cépages*, it reaches its apogee in Cheval Blanc, itself one of the greatest of Bordeaux. Bourriquot, French slang for a donkey, a vin d’ homage from Havens of California is a must buy whenever it is found. Not nearly as polished or elegant as the name so aptly implies, the makers had the courage and foresight to attempt such a blend, and the sense of humor to reflect the outcome en Française.
I have found a most pleasant wine from Long Island, N.Y. Wolfer Estate has made a long-term commitment to Cabernet Franc and have done a noteworthy job of it. Pair the wine with a Long Island duck and a sampling of great produce available on the island for a great statement on local/green dining. I have done the very thing; perhaps I will share the menu with you one day.
Recommendations;
Cab/Cab Franc/Merlot 2003 Havens+ California Black and Blue Buy this 89pts
Cab Franc/Merlot 2002 Havens+ California Bourriquot Blue and black fruits
Gristina Vineyards on Long Island and most wineries beginning with ‘P’ for great Cab Franc…
*i.e. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.
+ Sadly, Havens is no more…great guys making great wines is not enough I guess.
Friday, September 9, 2011
The Grapes from A-Z
Baga
Perhaps one of the most widely planted grapes in Portugal, the Baga or Tinta Barraida can be a long-aged wine due to high tannins and acidity. An important aspect in the Porto trade it can be overbearing in the varietal market.
Nothing to recommend.
Perhaps one of the most widely planted grapes in Portugal, the Baga or Tinta Barraida can be a long-aged wine due to high tannins and acidity. An important aspect in the Porto trade it can be overbearing in the varietal market.
Nothing to recommend.
Friday, September 2, 2011
The Grapes from A-Z
Baco (Blanc, Noir)
Named for a famed French nurseryman the Baco Blanc was hybridized to solve the reluctance of Folle Blanche to grafting. Folle Blanche was the primary grape for Armagnac but was reduced by the phylloxera outbreak. Baco Blanc is now replaced by Ugni Blanc as the grape for Armagnac. Baco Noir was created from Folle Blanche and a wild vitus riparia in 1894 and never really took hold although it was widely planted in France. There are vines in the Eastern United states and Canada and I have sampled several desultory wines from this ignoble grape…Stick with the vitus vinifera if you want classic wine flavor profiles. Nothing to recommend.
Named for a famed French nurseryman the Baco Blanc was hybridized to solve the reluctance of Folle Blanche to grafting. Folle Blanche was the primary grape for Armagnac but was reduced by the phylloxera outbreak. Baco Blanc is now replaced by Ugni Blanc as the grape for Armagnac. Baco Noir was created from Folle Blanche and a wild vitus riparia in 1894 and never really took hold although it was widely planted in France. There are vines in the Eastern United states and Canada and I have sampled several desultory wines from this ignoble grape…Stick with the vitus vinifera if you want classic wine flavor profiles. Nothing to recommend.
The Grapes from A-Z
Bacchus
Aside from being my Lord and savior, Bacchus is the name of a German white grape created from the crossing of Silvaner x Riesling x Muller-Thurgau varieties. It is a blending grape that is valued in Qba blends. I have yet to see it mentioned on any label and can only assume it is filler that quality wines do not possess. It is for some strange reason the fourth most planted grape in England, which speaks volumes concerning the quality it represents. Cheers. Sorry, no recommendations as of Sep. 2011.
Aside from being my Lord and savior, Bacchus is the name of a German white grape created from the crossing of Silvaner x Riesling x Muller-Thurgau varieties. It is a blending grape that is valued in Qba blends. I have yet to see it mentioned on any label and can only assume it is filler that quality wines do not possess. It is for some strange reason the fourth most planted grape in England, which speaks volumes concerning the quality it represents. Cheers. Sorry, no recommendations as of Sep. 2011.
The Grapes from A-Z
Bonarda
Ah, Bonarda…Oh, I know it’s a little known grape variety but that’s because it is hard to ripen and rarely grown in Italy anymore. Given the limited growing season of its homeland of Italy, the years that it may fully ripen are limited. My research has revealed three varieties in Italy and two of them are not Bonarda. What the hell did I just say? Bonarda grown in the Otrepo Pavese and Colli Piacentini is actually Croatina . Bonarda Novarese is in fact Uva Rara. This leaves us with the Bonarda Piemontese, a virtually non-existent borderline survivor. I have tried a Bonarda grown in the Russian River region and found it wanting. Even in sunny California it hasn’t found a home yet. (Just wondering if any Bonarda survive in Zinfandel (primitivo) plots?) So my only good experience with Bonarda is due to the marketing power of the Argentines. No, that’s not right, it’s due to the excellent wine making ability of the Argentines, the marketers be damned. And just in case you were feeling like you’ve wrapped your head around this grape, Jancis Robinson’s Encyclopedia of wine concludes the Bonarda entry with…”some authorities believe Argentine Bonarda is in fact the variety known as Charbbono.” Bacchus, give me strength!
Recommended wines;
The Bonarda/Syrah blend by Susan Balbo is the inspiration behind this treatise. The Bonarda was so thick and rich that they had to blend it with Syrah so it would pour from the bottle. Not really, but that is exactly the flavor profile of this everyday pour. I believe I poured this at $8/glass to great effect. Those lovers of New World fruit and Old World grapes will be very happy.
For those who want more of this kind of wine I have to refer you to Tikal and the Patriota Blend of Bonarda 60% and Malbec 40% for a fleshy, saturated, juicy hedonistic journey of a wine. Yes, another New World wine. Perhaps the Old World is not changing and therefore requires no reportage, hmmm, the lovers of Lafite will not be swayed by my prose, so I report for thee. And thou art drinking big, bold, character driven wine and so I will search out the finest for thee and thine. Keerist I gotta stop with that antiquated olde English crap. So to summarize…
2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah Bonarda $12/bottle 3/22/11
2008 Tikal Patriota $20/bottle 3/22/11
Ah, Bonarda…Oh, I know it’s a little known grape variety but that’s because it is hard to ripen and rarely grown in Italy anymore. Given the limited growing season of its homeland of Italy, the years that it may fully ripen are limited. My research has revealed three varieties in Italy and two of them are not Bonarda. What the hell did I just say? Bonarda grown in the Otrepo Pavese and Colli Piacentini is actually Croatina . Bonarda Novarese is in fact Uva Rara. This leaves us with the Bonarda Piemontese, a virtually non-existent borderline survivor. I have tried a Bonarda grown in the Russian River region and found it wanting. Even in sunny California it hasn’t found a home yet. (Just wondering if any Bonarda survive in Zinfandel (primitivo) plots?) So my only good experience with Bonarda is due to the marketing power of the Argentines. No, that’s not right, it’s due to the excellent wine making ability of the Argentines, the marketers be damned. And just in case you were feeling like you’ve wrapped your head around this grape, Jancis Robinson’s Encyclopedia of wine concludes the Bonarda entry with…”some authorities believe Argentine Bonarda is in fact the variety known as Charbbono.” Bacchus, give me strength!
Recommended wines;
The Bonarda/Syrah blend by Susan Balbo is the inspiration behind this treatise. The Bonarda was so thick and rich that they had to blend it with Syrah so it would pour from the bottle. Not really, but that is exactly the flavor profile of this everyday pour. I believe I poured this at $8/glass to great effect. Those lovers of New World fruit and Old World grapes will be very happy.
For those who want more of this kind of wine I have to refer you to Tikal and the Patriota Blend of Bonarda 60% and Malbec 40% for a fleshy, saturated, juicy hedonistic journey of a wine. Yes, another New World wine. Perhaps the Old World is not changing and therefore requires no reportage, hmmm, the lovers of Lafite will not be swayed by my prose, so I report for thee. And thou art drinking big, bold, character driven wine and so I will search out the finest for thee and thine. Keerist I gotta stop with that antiquated olde English crap. So to summarize…
2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah Bonarda $12/bottle 3/22/11
2008 Tikal Patriota $20/bottle 3/22/11
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)