Thursday, June 23, 2011

Glass of Italy

Due to fortunate circumstances, I was invited to a private tasting at The Hudson Hotel, NYC last Tuesday. So hip, there is no sign on the 58th St. entrance...so hipster that I'm forced to don my reading glasses to find the 24th floor button in the elevator. After the cavern-like 'lobby' the tasting is outdoors under a sun tent with views of the Jersey rive gauche, a breezy late spring affair high above the hustle down below. Let's get to the wine.
I run through the whites first, as usual, and this takes but a few minutes as there are not too many here today. Bingo, the first wine is a winner, juicy without being over-fruity or sweet the Trebbiano-Chardonnay blend Rubicone IGT, Terre Forti 2010 was raised in the Northwest of Italy in Emilia-Romagna. If priced well, that is to say in the $10 range (wholesale), I could pour this to great effect. The effect being pleasure for the guest and profit for the resto owner. It went downhill from there with but a Pinot Grigio and a Muller-Thurgau of no distinction, c'est la guerre.
The red wines fared well with a few exceptional works, which is all that interests me nowadays. Life is too short and brutish to waste it drinking average wine so there is my raison d'etre, et voila here are my choices for the next Italian wine list.
From the Terre De Trinci Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2004 offers up a deep and rich wine that screams for a cheese board. Wild berries and leathery tannins combine to create a flavor profile that pairs well with game and beef.
Marco Donati made one hell of a Teroldego in 2009. The Rotaliano DOC is carried on full, ripe berry flavors intermingled with savory herbs and the acidity/tannins prominent but in balance. Head and shoulders above yer average Teroldego, cheers.
The Cantina Di Villa has taken the Nebbiolo grape to great heights by pressing the grapes in January after drying the berries. After a long period of skin submersion during maceration, which is how they get all the flavor in the wine, it is aged for at least 36 months followed by 6 months cave rest in bottle. Result is a wine I know you are gonna love. Okay so there is a touch of fruit on the palate and it leans to the International Style that is taking over, whatcha gonna do but go with the flow, yes, Tom Wolfe was right after all, or was it Ken Kesey of the Merry Pranksters? Whatever, this is a premium wine well worth the $40 retail or $70 on the wine list price. Sforzato Di Valtina DOCG Tinaia 2006, really fine fruits and spice in balance, excellent.
While but a small gathering of producers the results were un-characteristically good. I'll keep you informed of some new wines as I find them...til then, cheers!

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