Working Stiff

Part Three

So if you have not heard, intuited, or surmised, the temple of PALLADIN has sadly, closed its doors. This was due to lackluster attendance no doubt caused by the absence of Jean-Louis, himself. The plug was pulled on a real sleeper of a restaurant. If one was to have come in after the theatre crowd, say, 8 p.m., and ordered a multi-course-tasting menu, you would have received our staff's undivided attention and the full efforts of a world-class kitchen. What I will cover in this article is one of those amazing nights when everything went right and the flavors played, mingled, and raised one another to dizzying heights. The kitchen was on top of their game and rockin', and I was flawless, as every wine was a well-matched winner to the sublime, heavenly cuisine.
What was neither known nor publicized, was the glorious, albeit short, reign of Jean-Louis Dumonet as the executive chef. Maitre Chef de Cuisine de France Dumonet is a gem of a guy, un vrai mec, a mensche, who was charged with the responsibility of preparing the works of Jean-Louis Palladin in a cost effective yet sublime fashion. Not an easy chore, mind you. While most definitely in charge, he is hardly an autocrat or madman on the line. A real joy to work with is how I would sum up my experience. Chef encouraged, challenged, taught and most importantly, fed me. I ate the finest food night after night and was reduced to a groveling neophyte at the feet of a master. Chef Dumonet has a classic palate for wine in addition to his other copious talents. He kept me at the top of my game with helpful insights on service and the fine art of running a restaurant cum laude. The apostles of the kitchen were a fun group of guys for the most part. It was not every night without conflict on the line however, the differences made for, shall we say, active dynamics. Sous-Chef Marcus, was in most instances, responsible for my late night dinner and would always surprise and delight me with whatever was fresh that day. Majeit, at the fish station would gladly give up his professional tips to me during shift drink or upstairs at the TIME LOUNGE, our after-work hangout. Then, there was Omar at the salad and apps station, he was a devout student of red wines and was responsible for turning out those lobster club sandwiches I so admired. Henry, of HenryKatBruce was fun, but I don’t know what he did… He is doing it at a barbecue joint down on Varick Street I’ve heard. Hell, there was damn near a dozen dudes back there at times.

Dégustation Suprème

Here’s the rough outline with the descriptions to follow. It would go something like this…
Ken, our James Dean-esque waiter, has sold a table on the idea of a tasting menu. I then approach the group with an offer to match each course with an appropriate wine. Let us assume that they have chosen wisely and said yes to an eight-course meal with matched wine. I then collect the menus and tell them that the Chef will be in charge from here on whilst I, Monsieur Roland, will be at your service. Then I turn the table back over to Ken. Ken checks for food allergies, phobias and hate lists. I get together with Chef in the kitchen and we start our lists. Below left is what I got from Chef. I noted the wines on the right and we were off.

Canapé Jacquesson, NV Champagne

Gazpacho The Jacq was for both courses as the Canape was small

Melon Clos St. Yves, Savènnieres

Scallops Horse Heaven, Sauvignon Blanc, Chateau Ste.Michelle

John Dory I Colombi, Arneis

Lobster Civet Joe Dobbes, Pinot Noir

Foie Gras Baumard, Quarts de Chaume

Short Ribs La Stèle, Mas de la Dame

Consommé

Dessert Sauternes/Porto

The canapé was the Palladin signature Quail Egg on Brioche with caviar. The Jacquesson, NV Champagne was a perfect foil for the petit but rich canapé. All warm and toasty with a tiny creamy yolk which carried into the characteristic briny notes of the caviar. This warm appetizer was an awesome beginning to an incredible meal. As the canapé was small, I let the champagne ride, refilling if necessary, right into the soup course of the most sublime Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with Maine crab. The Gazpacho was remarkably light in that Jean-Louis would blend the soup to an extra fine consistency adding olive oil and softened bread. This gave the soup body and airiness at the same time. The sweet meat of the crab with the attendant salty tones of the sea made a truly harmonic statement as they played off of the purée of sweet tomatoes and other vegetables.
The next course was a Clavaillon Melon with Parma Prociutto and crushed black pepper, a pairing that I matched to a 1995 Savènnières from the Clos St. Yves, on account of its light, fresh qualities. Generally an overlooked wine, this responded in a noble fashion. No, not just any melon for us, Jean-Louis specified Clavoillon melon and so that is what we got.
The Pan-seared Sea Scallops with ginger, young scallions & baby vegetables were truly amazing by themselves. But when paired with the 1998 Horse Heaven vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, from Chateau Ste. Michelle, well, I must say I outdid myself. The clean, acidic, and herbal flavors of the wine complimented the burst of flavor that accompanied the dish. Cascading sheets of flavors from the earth and beyond lent surreality to the sweet, fleshy scallops. More wine!
Ah, the Roasted John Dory, that fish of light and fine-grained flesh, also known as the St. Pierre, was teamed with artichokes and cèpes in a chicken jus. This ethereal yet earthy combo deserved the Arneis of i Colombi, from L'uvaggio di Giacomo, the 1998 vintage. Phil, our GM was totally stricken by this wine and bought the whole NYC consignment, (a sure strategy for a unique wine list). The floral nose gives way to nuts and woody flavors with a slightly bitter finish that played well to the mushrooms, artichokes and the tender, succulent fish. An Italian Gruner Veltliner, if you will.
Next up was the most intriguing Lobster Civet with pearl onions, chanterelles and pancetta in a red wine reduction. This was all the excuse I needed to pull out my Joe Dobbes 1997 Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley of Oregon. This wine is probably better today than yesterday and will keep getting better. A beautiful medium-bodied wine with balanced flavors of black and red fruit, yet lean enough to be a great food wine as well. The tender lobster tail was broiled in red wine with shallots and the finely chopped pancetta. Gods, this was good. I have to give the wine another point now in retrospect. Revised up to 90 points.
Chef next decided to go with a course of Roasted Foie Gras with golden farm Peaches. The foie was pan seared and served atop the heated peaches so I again decide to go with another unheralded wine from the Loire Valley. The Domaine Baumard, must be saluted for this 1998 Quarts de Chaume. A sweet and clean wine from Chenin Blanc grapes, there is an amazing purity of flavors here that is refreshing and remarkable despite the sugary nature of the wine. It supports the carmelized fruit flavors of the peaches and cleans the palate for the next bite of the fat fat fat Foie that is so so so so good.
"Red meat must be consumed!" roars the guest. And so it must be time for the Braised Kentucky Short Ribs. Chef has cooked these babies for nigh on five hours. Tender and so flavorful and dense that I must call on the syrah grape for comfort here. I reach for La Stèle 1998, Mas de la Dame from Les Baux de Provence. This wine is a refined take on the syrah grape. More an Hermitage than a rustic offering from the Languedoc, this is a great wine and a good value, and with these fork-tender boneless ribs, damn, one just can't do any better, can one?
A Consommé is brought out next to cleanse and revive the palate. I give the guests a break here and let them sip Pellegrino for a minute or two.
Desserts will be a choice of the signature Banana Banana Banana and the Three Chocolate Feuillantine. These are PALLADIN triple plays for the coup de grace. The Banana job features a caramelized banana tart, banana ice cream and banana flan. The Chocolate experience is white, milk, and dark chocolate wafers mortared with caramel and teamed with a port sorbet with dried cherries and a port reduction sauce drizzled artistically ‘round the plate. The obvious choice here is the Quinta do Infantado Porto of 1985. For chocolate lovers there might be no finer exposition than this. The dried cherries and the port sauce serve only to highlight the subtle chocolate differences. A must taste…
The Banana triptych requires deft handling so reflexively I turn to the 1996 Sauternes from Castelnaut de Suideraut, which has done yeoman service here at Palladin. A good, steady, reliable performing sweet wine for most every non-chocolate dessert on the menu. If the client requested, I could upgrade to the Chateau D'Yquem 1990 in a flash but hey, I didn’t have to.
Whew, this was a good one for me even in retrospect. I hope you enjoyed the virtual nosh. CS 04/01

Scattered are we now.

Chef Palladin has sadly, passed 11/25/01. There is nothing I can say that will assuage our loss. I have but thanks for the opportunity to have served under one of the world's greatest chefs.
Chef Dumonet is now appearing at The Carlyle. He has changed the menu already so go, now. I was all set to tell you about his short but sweet tenure at RHÔNE! They have some fine Viognier on the list, ask Jeffery for help there.
Phil is around the corner from Rhône at PASTIS. He is there 9-5, (doesn’t he wish).Ooops, gone.
Adam is at TAO, only the hottest spot uptown. Temple of Doom meets Apocalypse Now décor is just so surreal.
Mark, Itay and Dennis, the butcher, are downtown at Mad Max,s new place, L’Oursin. Oops, Max just replaced them with cheap imported labor. C’est la guerre.
Mark is now found at Chez Ducasse, yikes! No, he’s back with Chef at Rhône, oi! Now follow the bouncing workers.
Itay is on the line at Bouloud, no less.
Moi, I am still looking for just the right place. I’ll keep you posted.

Arneis '98 Napa L'uvaggio di Giacomo Nice change of pace 85
Champagne, NV Jacquesson et Fils Quintessential house pour na
La Stèle '98 Baux de Provence Mas de la Dame Big flavors and smooth 88*
Pinot Noir '97 Willamette Joe Dobbes Signature Cuvée Top of the line pinot 90*
Porto ’85 Quinta do Infantado Can one doubt JLP? 91*
Quarts du Chaume '98 Domaine Baumard Glorious sweet and neat 93*
Sauternes '96 Castelnau de Suideraut Serviceable if not stellar 86
Sauvignon Blanc '98 Columbia Val Château St. Michelle Horse Heaven Beautifully rendered wine 90*
Savennières '95 Clos St. Yves Refreshing, dry light 85

* denotes a Cellar Selection of the Cyber Sommelier

CARLYLE RESTAURANT
Carlyle Hotel
35 East 76th Street
NYC
212.744.1600

PASTIS
9-11 Little 12th Street
NYC 10014
212.929.4844

RHÔNE
63 Gansevoort St.
New York City 10014
212.367.8440

TAO
42 East 58th Street
New York City 10022
212.888.2288
212.8884148 fax

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